Recipe by Paola Bacchia
Photo courtesy of Paola Bacchia

As you drive north along the Adriatic coast, rows of grapevines become part of the scenery from the northern reaches of Puglia, through Molise, Abruzzo and into Le Marche.

At the time of grape harvesting, in late summer and early autumn, vincotto (also known as ‘sapa’) is made by reducing filtered grape juice (grape ‘must’) over many hours into a thick, sweet syrup. Vincotto can be used in desserts, but also pairs well in savoury dishes with walnuts, which are ready to be harvested at the same time as the grapes.

The sauce is a type of pesto, and should have an even balance of sweetness and nuttiness, with a hint of acid. Make sure you add plenty of parmesan to balance the inherent sweetness of the vincotto.

Serves 4 as a first course meal or 3 as a main

Instructions:

1. Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta until al dente, following the instructions on the packet. Drain, reserving a little of the pasta water in a cup.
2. Meanwhile, finely grind the walnuts in a mini food processor. Add the remaining ingredients and 2 tablespoons water and pulse until combined, adding a splash more water if the consistency is too thick. Taste and season as needed with salt.
3. Return the pasta to the pan it was cooked in, along with a splash of the reserved pasta water and the pesto. Stir briefly over medium heat until the pasta is well coated and the sauce is warmed through.
4. Divide the pasta among warmed bowls or plates and finish with a generous handful of parmesan, a few rocket leaves and a dash more olive oil if you like.

Note: Look for vincotto in Italian delicatessens and check the label for vinegar, which should be avoided.