Photography by Alana Dimou

Unlike a lot of countries with a strong coffee culture, the people of Hong Kong focus on tea made with evaporated milk. Some industry statistics report that Hongkongers consume about 1 billion cups each year. So what is so special about this milk tea?

Influenced by British afternoon tea, this East-meets-West in a drink is also called si mat lai cha or ‘silk-stocking milk tea’ as it is made by repeatedly straining the tea through a very fine cloth; in the process the cloth turns brown, taking on the appearance of a silk stocking. In addition to the technique, the use of Black & White evaporated milk (imported from Holland and the only brand Hong Kong cha chaan teng use) makes this rendition of milk tea particularly rich and fragrant. If you are a coffee lover, try a cup of yuenyueng—coffee mixed with milk tea.

Serves 6

Instructions:

1. Pour 1½ quarts of water into a medium saucepan and bring to the boil over high heat. Add the tea bags, then reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and set aside for 10 minutes.
2. If you want to go all out, strain the tea from a height through a fine cloth a few times. (Traditionally you strain it from a height so the water pressure extracts more of the tea flavour, while the fine cloth catches the tannins and impurities.)
3. Pour evaporated milk into each cup until it is one-quarter full, then pour in the tea (the golden ratio is one part evaporated milk to three parts tea). Add sugar to taste and enjoy the moment.