Hidden Treasures of the Petrified Forest
Interview with Sarah Herve
Photography by NPS, unless noted
In the dry, rugged canyons of northeast Arizona sits a gateway to other eras: vibrant ruins of an ancient village spin tales of rich histories, while waves of red sand disperse to reveal ancient fossils and hiking trails through practically alien-like landscapes that summon thoughtful travelers to stroll and speculate about what else is out there.
But the greatest attractions to this site are unusual gems formed from prehistoric trees, which give Petrified Forest National Park its name.
Sarah Herve, chief of interpretation at the park, shares the greatest marvels to explore in this remarkable destination and offers advice for active travelers looking to stomp their boots across its most rugged trails.
Would you give us an overview of the park?
Petrified Forest National Park was established in 1962 and has some of the largest concentrations of colorful petrified wood in the world, alongside fossils of other life-forms from the Late Triassic period (about 200 million years ago). Modern species that we’re familiar with today, including crocodiles and alligators, originated in this era, and we can find fossils of their distant cousins in the park grounds.
Why does this site hold so many fossils?
It comes down to the geology of the region, the Colorado Plateau. During the Triassic period, this land was a more tropical ecosystem near the equator, probably near current-day Costa Rica, and different plants and animals thrived here. As the continents shifted and the climate changed, organisms died and were preserved and buried. And now erosion via wind and rain reveals their fossilized remains.
That’s also why we have so much petrified wood here— especially what we call “rainbow wood,” which is rich in colorful minerals like iron and manganese. Visitors will find a forest of these formations in the southern area of the park, where they can hike and get up close with many of the formations; there’s also a museum where people can learn more about them.
We usually recommend that visitors start their exploration at the southern entrance to the park because that will put them right in the petrified wood deposits immediately. We also recommend visiting Jasper Forest for its fossils. It offers some of our more impressive views of beautiful, giant logs.
What other sights can people experience in your park?
The park has an amazing archaeological history. It boasts 13,000 years of continual human occupation, and we retain a close relationship with indigenous tribes in the area—the descendants of people who lived here for thousands of years. People from the nearby Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi communities work at the park, and they are striving to decolonize their tribes’ histories. We’ve learned so much about this land from them. It’s a wonderful place to learn about different indigenous cultures of the Southwest and experience archaeological sites like petroglyphs, or rock art, and agate houses: remains of old structures that were built out of petrified wood thousands of years ago. This area is still considered sacred to many tribes today, and, thankfully, these lands are protected. There’s also a beautiful building here called the Painted Desert Inn. It was once a hotel, but it now hosts cultural demonstrations by silversmiths and ceramists. Visitors can talk with them about their work and also purchase their goods.
Our visitor center serves as an orientation building where people can get maps, talk to rangers, and learn more about daily activities. It provides plenty of fun activities for kids, such as the popular Junior Ranger Program, a little booklet full of tasks kids can complete to earn ranger badges.
What safety tips would you recommend to anyone touring the park?
Bring plenty of water. We are at an elevation and in a desert grassland environment, so there’s very little shade and it can get very hot—you’ll be surprised by how much water you’ll go through. Wear a hat and sun protection too. Closed-toe shoes or boots are recommended because of the rocky surfaces, but we do have paved trails for people who want a shorter, easier walk.
We lead guided experiences so you don’t have to wander alone, but if you’re solo hiking, it’s a good idea to let someone in the visitor center know where you’re heading as a safety precaution. Carry a cell phone and some snacks, which are helpful in case you wander farther than you expect. We also have a restaurant and snack stations in the park that sell extra provisions.
Should visitors be concerned with wildlife in the park?
If you mean the living species, not the fossilized ones, not at all! The park’s painted desert landscape and grasslands support huge ecosystems, which include pronghorn antelope, mountain lions, bobcats, bears, elk, deer, coyotes, badgers, and prairie dogs. Many people come here just for bird-watching because the park is on a migratory pathway. We also have several species of snakes—which I know some people have strong feelings about—as well as lizards, toads, and salamanders. You’re highly unlikely to have an encounter with a large predator. There’s so much land here that they don’t generally spend time hanging around people. If you’re lucky, you might get a glimpse of a bear, for example, making its way across the landscape. You may see a rattlesnake, but don’t worry— they’re not aggressive and won’t bite you so long as you give them space. Coyotes, meanwhile, are actually very shy. They’re not going to approach or attack you. If you do have a wildlife encounter, just provide a respectful distance. Don’t pet the porcupines or offer food to the ravens.
Much of the park is beautifully intact western grassland. With ranching and the introduction of invasive species, many of America’s native grasslands have disappeared. Our animals are really lucky to live in this protected environment.
What is your favorite feature of the park?
I really love the Blue Mesa area, where you can explore canyons with beautiful layers of colors like purple, green, and blue. Walk in and immerse yourself—it’s very serene. One thing that’s unique about this park is that you can easily get to places where you can experience solitude, which is very hard to find these days. I love driving through the park, playing music, and watching the grass move in the wind. That’s so soothing to me.
For more info, visit nps.gov/pefo